Tuesday, 12 June 2012

Magic Wood is Magic Good Pt. 1

I got here on the night of the 29th and was quickly shown around the Forest by Fred. The furthest blocs lie within 15minutes walking distance, so needless to say the quantity in such a small space was 2nd only to the quality. Because of the limited time here I'm not really projecting anything. If I don't think it'll go that day I'm leaving it for next trip

Scoping out the boulders

Magic Wood is Magic Good, the first day was encouraging, Flashing Flown Away 7B after ticking off the entire Höhen Boulder 2nd shot (7A, 7B+, 7C). We then went down to the river bloc for the Grit delux, a no hands mantle to crimps with smears. Total anti style. Fred flashed it. Rene and I rode the send train.

The weather here hasn't been the best. To my knowledge the river hasn't flooded this bad in 2 years. In the last 2 weeks it has flooded twice. Before Bruno Bloc (home to the Neverending Story) went under, I did both Supernova 7C and Du Côté du Seshuan 7C+. Both are exceedingly cool although the latter is without a doubt the most amazing line I've  ever climbed. Unless you are solely a slab climber, this line has it all; overhanging slopers, crimps, smearing, a kneebar, a mantle, a no hands-rest and a dyno. A total classic from Fred Nicole.

Other lines soon went down including From the Darkness to the Sunshine 7C+ and a flash of Intermezzo 7C. Coupled with a few more 7C's and a small score of 7B's I've got enough under my belt to make the 5 forced rest days of rain bearable.

From the Darkness to the Sunshine

It's been a week and a half since arriving and I've so far managed 34 problems above 7A. I'm one off my goal and an 8A might be a nice trip-ender. But we'll have to wait and see what the week brings.


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